Did you just limp through another winter with an outdated heating system? Or at this point of the year, even worse, are you heading into the dog days of another Washington DC area summer with a cooling system that has been showing  signs of age? Believe it or not, there may never be a better time to install a new system, and we can show you how.

With green-friendly and efficient products gaining so much attention these days at both the state and local level, there are tremendous incentives now being offered both at the tax and rebate level on new high-efficiency systems. This not only makes it cheaper than ever to buy, but you get the added benefit of the personal savings monthly on your utility bills as well.

Let’s take a look at a few of the programs we’re helping our clients take advantage of right now:

Pepco Rebates Up To $500

This is one we’ve been connecting our clients with quite a bit this past year, and it continues into Spring 2013. Pepco is offering rebates up to $500 on qualifying new high-efficiency electric Heat Pumps or AC Units.

For a full list of rebate amounts and qualifying products feel free to give us a call directly at 301.774.4200, or visit the link below:

http://homeenergysavings.pepco.com/hvac-efficiency-program/rebates

Maryland’s Be SMART Rebate Program

The Be SMART Home Rebate Program offers up to $4250 in incentives to Maryland homeowners to offset the cost of qualified energy efficiency improvements and products. A comprehensive home energy audit is required to participate in the Be SMART Home Rebate Program. Made possible by a grant from the U.S. Department of Energy, rebates are available on a first come, first served basis to eligible homeowners of single family homes, and town homes in Maryland.

For full details feel free to give us a call directly at 301.774.4200, or visit the link below:

http://www.dhcd.maryland.gov/Website/Programs/BeSmart/rebate.aspx

Federal Tax Credits for Energy Efficient Heating & Cooling Systems

From fuel-efficient cars to energy-efficient heating and cooling systems, the federal government has been placing a high priority on green-friendly and economic HVAC systems for homeowners with their Federal Tax Credit program. It’s still available for the balance of 2013 and we can help you take advantage of it. To learn more, give us a call at 301.774.4200.

Tax Credit: 10% of cost up to $500.

Expires: Limited time offer – hurry!

For full details feel free to give us a call directly at 301.774.4200, or visit the link below:

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index

No-Interest and Other Aggressive Financing Options From Industry Equipment Leaders Goodman

In today’s marketplace, more and more homeowners are turning to financing as a method for paying for their new air conditioning and heating systems. That is why we are proud to present the Installment Finance Program from our equipment partner Goodman.

We’re a big fan of Goodman’s equipment guarantee that provide new compressor or heat exchanger should any of their fail withing the first 10 years, and now, through their Installment Finance Program, we can now offer you the option of paying off your new Goodman® HVAC system, and other home improvements, by making affordable monthly payments for up to 10 years or making no payments at all for up to 12 months. This program features a paperless application process that has made applying for financing quicker and easier than ever before and we’re happy to guide you through the process.

A comfortable and healthy home environment requires an efficient and sound heating system that is not only energy-efficient, but that does not endanger the indoor air quality by overtaxing the supply of oxygen needed for combustion.

This time of year in particular, it’s important to know the 8 warning signs that your furnace may need replacing. It is especially important not to wait until a crisis occurs . A cold night in January, with the furnace faltering or failed, is not the time to assess your heating system. We’ll help you do it now.

Information is the key to making a wise decision. Below we’ll teach you what the 8 warning signs are that your furnace may need replacing.

1. How old is your furnace?

A good place to start is to compare your furnaces age to the national average. The average life expectancy of furnaces in homes today is between 16 and 20 years. If your furnace is close to this age or older, you should begin shopping. Shopping for a replacement furnace in an emergency does not allow time to make your best decision. Most people prefer to replace their furnace as a planned home improvement rather than a panic replacement when your furnace is faltering or failed. For starters, look at your furnace to see if you have a pilot light. If you do, it is almost certain to be over 25 years old!

2. Gas & Electric Bills Going Up?

Rising gas and electric prices are not the only reason for high bills. Furnaces often lose their efficiency as they age especially if they have not been properly maintained. As a result your furnace may run longer to provide the same amount of heat. This will cause your gas & electric bills to go up. The money you pay the gas & electric company every month could be used to pay for new furnace.

3. Any Furnace Repairs in the last 2 years?

Furnaces are like cars. As they age, you can replace one part only to have to replace another part next year. It doesn’t take long to spend $500 just to keep the old furnace running. Furnaces incur the most breakdowns in the last 2 years of their lives. Another repair sign is whether you had to wait to get parts replaced. As a furnace ages, it gets harder to get replacement parts. This waiting can really be cold on a below zero night.

4. Does your thermostat keep you comfortable?

Do you feel that some rooms are too cold while others are too hot? Or are you always trying to adjust your thermostat to make your home more comfortable? This is a sign that your furnace lacks the ability to properly distribute the air to keep you comfortable in your home.

5. Is your burner flame yellow instead of blue?

A yellow or flickering flame may be a sign that poisonous carbon monoxide could be created by your furnace. Other possible signs of carbon monoxide are: Streaks of soot around furnace; Absence of an upward draft in your chimney; Excess moisture found on windows, walls, or other cold surfaces; Excessive rusting on flue pipes, other pipe connections, or appliance jacks; Small amount of water leaking from the base of the chimney, vent, or flue pipe; Rust on the portion of the vent pipe visible from the outside.

6. Is your furnace making strange noises?

Old furnaces often start to make some strange noises as they get toward the end of their life. Have you heard any banging, popping, rattling, or squealing noises coming from your furnace? Another noise is when you hear the furnace blower running excessively. Does your blower turn on & off frequently or does it blow cold air sometimes? If so, this is a sign that your furnace may need to be replaced.

7. How have you & your family been feeling?

Furnaces as they age run the risk of developing cracks in the heat exchanger inside your furnace. Carbon monoxide, if present, could leak into your home undetected. Signs of this may be frequent headaches, a burning feeling in nose or eyes, nausea, disorientation, flu-like symptoms. Should you experience any of these, air out your house, open a window to the furnace room and immediately call a gas service technician. Cracks in the heat exchanger can occur undetected which is why no one advises waiting until they occur.

8. Is your house dry or dusty?

Old furnaces often lack the ability to moisturize and clean the air in your home. Your house air may feel stuffy or stale. Does anyone in your family suffer from allergies to airborne dust, mold, pollen, viruses or dander? Or does anyone suffer from dry nose, dry throat, or dry skin? Other signs may be frequent dust accumulation, static shocks, drooping plants, furniture cracking and musical instruments that do not stay in tune. These signs all suggest that your old furnace is not capable of providing you with the comfort you and your family may want.

Most importantly, if you’re not sure, just give us call for an inspection. We also strongly recommend our annual check-up to help you keep things in running order from one year to the next. Give us a call at 301.774.4200. We’d be glad to help you further.

To begin, central air conditioning uses a considerable amount of electricity, particularly in warmer climates, and is one of the most expensive home appliances to operate. The difference between central air conditioning and a room (or window) air conditioner is the distribution system. A central air conditioner uses a blower and ductwork to distribute chilled, dehumidified air throughout the entire house. In contrast, a room air conditioner, typically installed in a window or, in some cases, through a wall, will cool a small area, generally a single room or perhaps two to three adjacent rooms. Central air conditioning is becoming much more common in this country, and is now present in over 47% of existing homes and over 77% of new homes!

Standard central air conditioners consist of three main parts: a condenser, an evaporator, and a compressor. The compressor and condenser are often integrated into a single unit that is typically installed outside the home but occasionally in an attic or on the roof. The evaporator is the cooling coil, normally installed in the air handling system. A refrigerant is circulated between these components. The air handler blower draws air from various parts of the home through return air ducts. The air then passes over the evaporator coil which has been chilled by the refrigerant. Heat is absorbed from the air, and moisture is drained away.

The conditioned air is then routed back to the rooms through the supply air ductwork. The refrigerant, which is converted to a vapor by the heat, is pressurized by the compressor and moved to the outside coil, or condenser, where the heat is dissipated. As the heat is removed by the condenser, refrigerant turns back into a liquid and then is sent (by way of the copper pipes) to a metering device (that is usually inside the cooling coil cover). And the process starts over again.

Energy Efficiency of Central Air Conditioning Systems
The efficiency of central air conditioners is measured in a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). Government standards currently require a minimum SEER of 13. Unfortunately, manufacturers can label such units “high efficiency”, even though they are the minimum allowed by law. High-efficiency air conditioners are now available that are 50% to 75% more efficient than units that were available five years ago. In fact, central air conditioners are now made with SEER ratings of up to 23. For air conditioners that are at or near the end of their useful lives, it is often cost-effective to replace them with high-efficiency equipment. When buying from a commercial source, choose models that qualify for the EPA/ENERGY STAR® label. Some manufacturers and retailers display the label on complying models. Alternatively, look at the yellow EnergyGuide label to identify models with efficient EER ratings.

Efficiency Losses
Unfortunately, the rating on the unit does not tell the whole story. Several factors can have a dramatic impact on the efficiency of (and hence the cost to operate) an air conditioning system. Duct leakage, particularly in the attic, garage, or crawlspace, can lead to losses of 30% or more! Unless the duct system was specially sealed, it is very likely that it leaks. Even in brand new systems, the majority leak a significant amount of air where the pieces are assembled. Other problems include improper refrigerant charge, low airflow, dirty indoor and outdoor coils, and recirculation. Even something as simple as a system that is larger than needed can cost more to run: see the section on replacement systems for more on proper A/C sizing.

Zoning
The addition of zones in central air conditioners is not usually recommended. This is because airflow across the indoor coil is critical to efficient operation, and zoned systems reduce airflow when only some zones are calling for cooling. Since the efficiency is reduced, there really is not much energy savings. If multiple zones are desired in the home, it is better to install two or more small central air systems to provide independent control of different areas.

When to Replace an Air Conditioning System
If you are the owner of an older air conditioning system, you may be wondering if it will last another year. You are concerned that it may stop working in the middle of the summer leaving you and your home hot and soggy. If this is the case, it’s probably time to call on an expert to consider replacement or repair.

Home air conditioning systems can be expected to last for 15 years or more. Good maintenance practices will, of course, provide an even longer service life. Deciding when to replace an old cooling system is not easy. Unless your present system is old and in very poor working condition, it may be hard to justify a new high efficiency system on energy savings alone. If your system doesn’t seem to be working as well as it used to, you should have a service person look at it to determine the likely cause of the problem. If there is a significant problem, simply comparing the price to repair the system with the cost of replacement will give you a good idea of what you should do. Keep in mind, however, that, due to improvements in efficiency, a new system will have the added benefit of reducing your operating cost. If your system is over 10 years old, you may want to consider a new unit. Especially if you have a large home with a high cooling load, the annual dollar savings from installing a new system may pay for itself in a short time.

Factors to Consider When Replacing an Air Conditioning System
Before you purchase a new system you should consider improving the efficiency of your home by adding insulation and sealing air leaks. This may have an impact on the size (and cost) of the new air conditioning system.

When planning for the replacement of your central air conditioning system, you will have an opportunity to make some efficiency improvements. You must first consider the tradeoff between the efficiency and cost of the new system. Furthermore, if your outdoor (condenser) unit is mounted on the roof or in an attic, you may want to move it to a cooler location when you install a new unit. That alone can make a large improvement in efficiency. If you are thinking of just changing the outdoor unit; keep in mind that the indoor unit may be just as old. Changing the outdoor unit to a newer high efficiency style may not give you the results you are paying for due to the mismatching of SEER ratings and age of equipment between units.

Sizing of Air Conditioning Systems
Central air conditioning system sizes are measured in tons. One ton of cooling is 12,000 Btu per hour, which is equivalent to the rate of cooling produced by one ton of ice melting over the course of a day. The larger the home, the larger the air conditioning unit that will be needed. Correct sizing is very important; an air conditioner that is too large will cycle on and off and be much less efficient. On the other hand, if it is too small it may not produce sufficient cooling.

Cooling Load Calculations
If you are installing a new air conditioning system or replacing an existing one, any contractor who is bidding on the job should perform a detailed cooling load calculation in order to select the proper system. They should not base their recommendation on simple “rules of thumb” which tend to oversize the equipment, and they should not simply replace the system with a new one of the same size. This is because all houses are different, the existing air conditioning system may have been oversized to begin with, and the house may have had insulation added or new windows installed since the original system was put in.

The contractor should measure your home to determine size of windows, the direction they face, the type of glass, the size of each room, the areas of walls and ceilings, and the amount of insulation. Preferably, they should do a room-by-room calculation to determine whether the existing ducts are adequate for the new system. In most cases, the time it takes them to perform these calculations should be offset by the savings in a smaller installed system.

Oversizing
Bigger is NOT necessarily better! Oversizing is common, because it is a way of compensating for potential distribution problems such as uninsulated or leaky ductwork. A new system will be much more efficient to operate if those problems are fixed first. An air conditioner that is too big will cycle on and off much more often, resulting in “blasts” of cold air, reducing efficiency, and increasing stress on components. In humid climates, oversized air conditioning will do a poor job of lowering the humidity, which is just as critical to comfort as the temperature setting in the room! In fact, a slightly undersized air conditioner will be just as comfortable—if not more—than an oversized air conditioner.

System Maintenance
Proper maintenance of an air conditioner will improve its efficiency and extend its life. This should be done at least every other year and it will require the services of a professional. The service call will involve a general tune-up, inspection, and cleaning of the system. Every tune-up should include an air filter change, inspection of the inside and outside coils (and cleaning if necessary), a check for proper air flow, and a check of all electrical connections.

In addition, the first time your air conditioner is serviced, the technician should check the refrigerant levels by testing something called “superheat” or “subcooling” (depending on the type of unit). Once they verify the proper refrigerant charge, no service person should attach refrigerant gauges again, unless you notice a decrease in performance or a sudden increase in your electric bills.

Also have the technician show you how to change the air filter. Dirty and clogged air filters result in improper supply of conditioned air and are the largest source of air conditioning service calls. In most cases, filters are easy to replace and result in more effective air conditioning. We recommend checking the air filters monthly, and replacing at least once a season as needed. Always follow the manufacturers instructions when replacing filters.When choosing an air filter, you have to be concerned about both filtering effectiveness and resistance to air flow. “Washable” electrostatic air filters create a lot of resistance which can reduce air flow and operating efficiency. On some systems, depending on the size of the ductwork, even a pleated filter can cause air flow problems. This can be checked by observing airflow with one and then the other filter in place. Air filters can be either permanent or disposable. Permanent electrostatic air filters, which require frequent cleaning, rely on static electricity to attract charged particles in the air stream. Permanent filters cost approximately $60 to $300, depending on size. High efficiency filters do not need to be replaced as often, but still should be checked at the beginning of the cooling season and replaced if dirty. Disposable panel air filters can be purchased at your local hardware store and range in price from as little as $1 to well over $40. The less expensive disposable fiberglass filters are not as efficient, and may cost you more in the long run. Upgrading the efficiency of the filter to remove smaller particles can help maintain the equipment as well as the health of employees and consumers.

Always keep the air vents open in a central air conditioning system, and don’t obstruct them with furniture or draperies. In addition, do not attempt to cover or shade the outdoor coil; even a deck built above the unit, with open sides, can cause recirculation and reduce efficiency dramatically. Keeping leaves and dirt from accumulating on the sides of the outdoor unit helps to maximize heat transfer and minimize cooling bills.

Most homeowners know that routine maintenance checks of their furnace can lower operating costs, protect their family against fire and carbon monoxide hazards, as well as help to ensure it’s smooth operation all winter long, but let’s take a look at exactly what seasonal maintenance should include with our Furnace Maintenance Checklist to be performed each fall. For homeowners who are handy around the house and full of do-it-yourself spirit you’ll want to start here: 

1. Turn off the electricity to the furnace. A clean filter means more efficient operation. If you haven’t regularly cleaned or replaced the filter or filters, do it now and check it throughout the heating season. If you have a central air conditioning system that operates with the furnace blower, count on replacing the filter more often.
2. Next, remove dust from the blower blades and motor body. Oil the motor and check the fan belt by lightly pressing it. If it doesn’t give about an inch, adjust it until it does. If it shows wear, replace it. To maximize efficiency, seal the filter opening with duct tape and make sure the blower cabinet door closes firmly.
3. Vacuum the grills and gently clean the thermostat monthly. At least once a year, remove all of the heating system’s grills, including the cold air returns, and remove any obstruction from the ducts. Check ductwork for improper connections and tape the seams with duct tape if necessary.
4. Perform a draft hood test for combustion air. If the furnace doesn’t get enough fresh air, combustion gases, including carbon monoxide, can spill out of the draft hood and into the house rather than being drawn up into the chimney. Here is how to test for combustion air:
• Close all exterior and bedroom doors. Also close all of the windows and the dampers on any fireplaces or wood stoves.
• Open the interior door to the basement or furnace room. Then open any interior doors standing between the furnace and the exhaust fans for the kitchen, bathrooms, clothes dryer and other vented appliances such as the water heater.
• Turn on the furnace. Wait for a few minutes for the draft to stabilize, then hold a smoking kitchen match or incense stick two inches from the draft hood opening. If the smoke draws into the draft hood, the furnace is venting properly. If it blows away from the hood, combustion gases are spilling into the house and you need to call a professional heating contractor immediately. Until the contractor fixes the problem, leave a furnace room window slightly open.

Now it’s our turn …

While lighter tasks such as those outlined above can be performed by a qualified do-it-yourselfer, we strongly suggest to each of our clients to arrange for a professional seasonal tune-up from our office where we’ll perform the above tasks in addition to the following only suggested for qualified technicians:

• Check and adjust the thermostat’s calibration
• Clean and adjust the burners
• Clean and adjust all the safety, pilot assembly and time controls
• Adjust the pressure regulator
• Inspect and clean the heat exchanger
• Lubricate all moving parts
• Check the flue pipe and diverter
• Replace the supply line filter in an oil furnace
• Check for gas leaks and carbon monoxide emissions
• Monitor the complete cycle for overall efficiency and
• Correct any problems.

Is It Time For a New Furnace?

An old furnace, even in good condition, may use only 60 percent of the available heat to warm the house. That means 40 cents of every heating dollar goes out the chimney.

The best high-efficiency furnaces waste less than five cents of every heating dollar. The general rule of thumb is if your furnace is over 10 years old and needs $600 or more in repairs, you probably want to replace it. However, if it is in good working condition, you probably want to live with it for awhile longer unless you have a large house, lots of windows, high heating bills or a combination of all three.

And if you have a pool heater, you’ll want to get that running properly as well, so you can start enjoying warm outdoor water as soon as the weather allows. We’re booking appointments now, just give us a call at 301.774.4200

1. Set your home’s thermostat at the coolest level you can without making your rooms uncomfortable. For most homes, the heating bill drops by about 2 percent for every 1 degree the thermostat is lowered.

2. Lower your home’s thermostat at bedtime or while you’re away during the day. (See Tip #7.) Setting the thermostat to 58 degrees while you’re asleep (you may need an extra blanket!) can cut your natural-gas bill by up to 7 percent.

3. Seal up leaky drafts around doors and windows with weather-stripping, caulking, and door sweeps. (And don’t forget to keep the damper closed on a fireplace or wood-burning stove when it’s not in use.) Also seal up any leaks or gaps in furnace ducts that extend through unheated basements or crawl spaces.

4. Have your furnace inspected and tuned once per year (before the heating season starts), and clean or replace the air filters on your furnace every two months during the heating season. Your furnace will run more efficiently and use less energy.

5. Set your water heater’s thermostat to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Lowering it from a higher setting will save you money and reduce the risk of being scalded.

6. Take shorter showers, wash clothes in cold water, and don’t over-dry your clothing.

7. Install a programmable thermostat for home heating. It can save lots of energy while you’re sleeping or away from home – and will re-warm your house shortly before you wake up or return home from work.

8. Replace traditional, incandescent lighting with Energy Star® compact fluorescent bulbs and fixtures (especially in the lights you use most).

9. Make sure you have adequate insulation in your home’s attic and walls, and around heating ducts that pass through unheated spaces.

10. Purchase an Energy Star® rated high-efficiency furnace, water heater, washer/dryer, and dishwasher when it’s time to replace worn-out models.

Have questions or need assistance with tuning your system? Just give us a call here at the shop 301.774.4200.